Zaca Mesa, Estate Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley, 2000, $20

Summary

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Syrah is taking California by storm. Ten years ago, fewer than 1,000 acres were planted to it. Today, about 15,000 acres are under vine, with more going in all the time. Up and down the state, more and more vintners regard it as the red variety of the future.

Syrah's emerging popularity stems from the fact that this full- flavored grape can yield soft but savory wines. Unlike merlot, the red darling of the '90s, these rarely taste excessively vegetal or candied. Instead, they tend to be packed with jammy red and black berry flavors.

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Zaca Mesa, Estate Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley, 2000, $20

The world's best syrah-based wines, hailing from France...

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