Colored by History ; Laid-Back St. Croix Filled with Vestiges of Centuries Past

Summary


Staring into the turquoise Caribbean Sea while sipping a tropical drink topped by a tiny paper umbrella, I suddenly realized what makes St. Croix so special.

My first inkling was the sign outside Off the Wall Beach Bar: "No shirt, no shoes, no problem." Then came the comment by island resident Hope Gibson, seated at the adjacent bar stool: "If you need to be entertained, you're ... out of luck on St. Croix."

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Colored by History ; Laid-Back St. Croix Filled with Vestiges of Centuries Past

"That's it," I said to myself. As one local Cruzan with whom I chatted conceded, "St Croix isn't a love-at-first-sight place."

Instead, the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands offers a comfortable, laid-back middle ground between the frenzy of shopping, commercialism and noisy night life on St. Thomas and the tomb-quiet setting of St. John. St. Croix (rhymes with "boy") combines just enough attributes of those nearby islands to satisfy most travelers, then adds its own unique flavor.

That includes the roast-pig-on-a-spit party held each Saturday along Mahogany Road. Then there are the red-roofed pastel buildings in the picture-book harbor town of C...

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