Chef Holds Courtat Bebo's, Where the Effort Shows ; Italian Fare in Informal Setting

Summary

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Some of Washington's most celebrated chefs were caught out recently by a Washingtonian survey of who's likely to be in the kitchen and who's not: nearly all usually are not, leaving the kitchen to lesser mortals. (Cookbook promotion tours, celebrity chefs, food and wine festivals.)

But not Roberto Donna in his new Arlington restaurant, Bebo Trattoria. And it shows. Mr. Donna is there every day at lunch and dinner, often at the bar having a quiet lunch at the end of the midday rush. He has not deserted his Galileo in Washington, but Bebo has his attention now while Galileo's home is undergoing major renovation.

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Chef Holds Courtat Bebo's, Where the Effort Shows ; Italian Fare in Informal Setting

Bebo Trattoria has taken over the location of Oyamel in the Crystal City area and, in turn, chef Jose Andres is moving into downtown Washington. The space hasn't been altered much. It's still a large, cavernous restaurant, but the walls are newly painted and the butterflies are gone.

There...

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